Marks of Time
Historic Buildings as  illustrations of the past.
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coleraine 24. Prosperous times

14/1/2026

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By the mid Eighteenth Century, things had settled down significantly and the economy (fuelled by linen manufacture as well as agriculture) was doing well enough to support investment in buildings. Prosperous linen merchants and landlords followed a similar approach for their houses. Some large houses were commenced for landlords (the lands of the London Guilds were leased out as were some of the church lands). A good example is Cromore House near Portstewart. On land obtained from the MacDonnells, John Cromie  built Cromore House at this time. The central portion of four windows dates from this period and would have been in the Georgian style. The building was remodelled after 1834 when the bays were added and the Greek temple like side wings. John Cromie's family are first recorded in the mid-17th century, based in Tullaghgore, Co. Antrim, however by the mid-18th century he had moved here ( where his  his maternal ancestors originated). These ancestors, the Stewarts of Ballyleese, provided the name for Portstewart which he also founded in 1792. 
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coleraine 23. the Penal Laws Influence on architecture.

8/1/2026

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Strict rules in the Eighteenth century also forbade the ordination of Catholic Bishops (and thereby the ordination of new priests), the construction of new catholic churches and impeded Catholic land purchase. Nonconformist churches were not allowed towers or steeples and when Catholics were allowed to build again, in the next century, they faced similar restrictions. The result was a very similar approach to church design between Presbyterians and Catholics.  This tended to simple rectangular ‘barn’ churches with the pulpit or the altar on the centre of a side wall and later extensions into a T form plan.  Early examples of the type in this area have all been replaced, but   St Mary’s Dunboe (1856) and Second Kilrea Presbyterian Church (1838) illustrate the approach.
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Coleraine 22. the 1718 Migration.

6/1/2026

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The settlement after 1691 confirmed the land ownership that had existed in this area from the time of the Plantation, (the MacDonnell’s, in Dunluce, who had  supported James II, successfully petitioned to retain their lands)  but, as the Anglican dominated Irish Parliament sought to exert its authority, it enacted a series of ‘penal  laws’ which aimed to reduce Catholicism and Nonconformist Christian practice on the island. Presbyterian Ministers, associated with the Scottish settlers, had to either comply with Anglican norms or quit church property – as many did- and found new churches. This, coupled with economic difficulties, led to a significant migration of Presbyterians from this area to Massachusetts in 1718. They were led by James McGregor, minister of Aghadowey. Two of the places where the settled in New England were subsequently renamed to remind the migrants of home. The township of Nutfield was renamed 'Londonderry' in 1722 and 'Boston Township No 2' was renamed 'Colerain.'   (https://discoverulsterscots.com/emigration-influence/america/1718-migration)

In 2018 the Ulster Historical Foundation carried out research to see if there are any remains of buildings associated with the  the places these migrants left behind. Through map research they identified locations where abandoned houses were recorded on the 1830 ordnance survey maps that might relate to dwellings abandoned by the migrants. At Brockaghboy  near Garvagh where ruins remain, a small archaeological excavation  established that the building probably dated from the eighteenth century an could be a remote place farmed by some of the migrants before they left for the 'New World.'

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coleraine 21.

5/1/2026

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Not surprisingly, with all the war and destruction, not much survives in this area from the seventeenth century. St Paul’s Church of Ireland in Garvagh, is dated 1670. St Paul’s Articlave, 1690.  Parts of of Bovagh House near Aghadowey may date to the early part of the century. The rear of Laurel Hill House in Coleraine may also date to that period. The stand out survivor, however, is Hazlett House near Castlerock. Said to have been built as a rectory for Articlave church, it has a ‘cruck truss’ construction. That is, the timber roof structure is built up from the floor. This has been scientifically dated to 1690. This technique was common in England at the time and also shown on Gaelic houses on Elizabethan maps but, with the loss of the great forests during this century (as timber was commercially exploited) it became very rare. it is currently preserved and opened for public access by the National Trust https://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/place/hezlett-house 
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Coleraine 20. Salterstown Iron Furnace

4/1/2026

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A little to the south of the former Coleraine Council area is this remnant of the early years of the  Plantation. This is the remains of a furnace used to smelt iron at high temperatures. The fuel for this?  Charcoal from  the plentiful forests in the surrounding area.  By 1654 this was largely gone and the furnace has fallen out of use.  A mile to the west of this is the 'Glass House Field' where the plentiful  timber was used for another manufacturing process. Glass was exported from here between 1611 and 1618 when the process was stopped due to a lack of a patent. There are no above ground remains today. To the east are the ruins of the Salterstown Bawn. This, like Movanagher to the north, was attacked and badly destroyed during the 1641 rebellion (when Catholic lords and military officers took advantage of  the dispute between the English Parliament and King Charles I to rise up across the island.by purporting to be on the side of the king. In Ulster they swiftly overwhelmed many of the smaller settlements of the new  Planters. The conflict continued until a new settlement was imposted by Cromwells's New Model Army after 1650)  Both of these settlements were never rebuilt. 
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coleraine 19. the Timber framed houses

2/1/2026

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The original houses of plantation Coleraine were timber framed as houses of the time were constructed in England. Some sources suggest that this timber was transported from England, but this is highly unlikely given the large forests which existed nearby at the time. In 1813 the Rev G v Sampson  reported that some of these survived in the Diamond. These had a covered way along the front or 'pentways', which by that time had been filled in. The above sketch is a quick copy of a watercolour by Jon Henry Campbell from around the same time where these buildings can be seen as well as a similar lean to arrangement  in the distance opposite the trees of St Patrick's churchyard. in more recent times the remains of slightly later timber buildings were found in New Row in the 1980's. It remains possible that some very early buildings still survive behind later facades within the town.
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coleraine 18. The Town Wall.

29/12/2025

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Only one remnant remains above ground of the town walls of Coleraine.  This is  the steeply sloping earthen  rampart between St Patricks Church and  Anderson Park. This part of the wall was always made of earth, though there was a  further moat at the base.
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Coleraine 17. The town plan

28/12/2025

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Today, the main architectural remnant of the Plantation in this area is the town plan of Coleraine. This, like the renamed Londonderry, was completely redesigned and rebuilt to a new, rational, grid layout by a new company - the Honourable the Irish Society - formed by a partnership between the 12 guilds. At Coleraine only the church  and  reused monastery remained in their original position. This reflected the latest thinking of how an ‘ideal’ settlement should be laid out. Building upon the legacy of the Romans, and influential in the American colonies, both settlements had a ‘diamond’  (market square) at their centre. This reflected the commercial focus of the City of London but also marked a change with the past. These are post medieval settlements. In previous eras a castle or church would have taken on this focus role. The drawing shown here is a copy of a map drawn of the settlement in 1622. 

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Coleraine 16. Brackfield bawn

26/12/2025

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A well-preserved example can, however, be seen in Bellaghy (Vintners) and a dramatic ruin is preserved at Brackfield (Skinners). Both are Monuments in State Care. 
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Coleraine 15. The Ulster plantation, Movanagher Bawn

23/12/2025

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Just over 100 years after the construction of Dunluce, the old Gaelic order came to an end. After 9 years of war the great chieftains east of the Bann, O'Neill and O'Donnell surrendered, but the new King James of England and IV of Scotland (who was used to the Scottish clans), regranted them their lands. in 1607, however, they left for Spain no longer able to stand the new ways and their land was declared forfeit. This left a huge part of Ulster under the direct control of the King and paved the way for a grand experiment. A complete reordering of the area, with new towns and a new population of the new religeon  imported from England and Scotland would be undertaken. This would bring a new area into the market economy. It would be a 'plantation'. This task was very expensive and so, not for the last time, the City of London was persuaded to invest. A new county - Co Londonderry  - was created between Coleraine and the renamed city of Londonderry and the area in between was allocated in 'proportions' to 12 companies of London Merchant Guilds. Other land was allocated tp former English soldiers and to the Church of Ireland and remaining  land to  native lords favoured by the new rulers.

Each company had to agree to import settlers, construct villages and build defensive fortified houses known as 'bawns' on their proportions. The bawns all had a walled courtyard with projecting towers known as flankers' at the corners. Settlements in this area were created at Articlave (clothworkers), Macosquinn (Merchant Taylors), Agivey (iIronmongerers) and near Kilrea at Movanagher (Mercers). The only bawn to survive in the former Coleraine council area is at Movanagher and here it has been become the walls of a farmyard. It has lost its house and much of its flankers but it remains a remnant, of what must have been a time of significant change.




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