In 2013, we assembled at Grianan to soak up the atmosphere and watch the sun rise on Midsummer's morning. A choir welcomed in Music City Day as part of the City of Culture celebrations.
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The stone fort we see today, is, in fact, one of the latest structures on the site. If you stand on the ramparts you can just make out the remains of the two older earthen rings around the structure. These date from the Iron Age. Enclosed by these is a small well associated with St Patrick. The stone fort was rebuilt by Dr Walter Bernard in the 1870's. At the time only 6ft of the structure remained. it had been a ruin since 1101 when Muircertach O'Brien, king of Munster sacked the place and instructed his soldiers to each remove a stone as they left. This drawing is based upon the Ordnance Survey map of 1830. At the time the rings were more distinct and the route between them of the old road towards Derry could be clearly made out. At the centre of the fort at the time was a 'tumulus' or cairn of stones over a grave like structure. All trace of this is now gone.
Up close it is a dramatic monument. Reached from a small car park at the end of a road that sprials up the hill, it is perfectly circular and open to the public. Made of dry stone construction (no mortar except where repaired) it has terraced levels inside that allow access to its battlements and fine views of the surrounding countryside. To the north in Co Donegal, Inishowen - the island of Owen. To the east, the city and what is now County Londonderry, but originally was part of Tyrone - the land of Owen. To the west and south lies the rest of County Donegal but once known as Tyrconnell - the land of Conal. Owen and Conal were sons of Niall of the Nine Hostages, a mythical hero, and gave their names to the two great competing clans of the area the Cenal Conaill and the Cenal Owen. Command of Aileach reflected which group was dominant. In the later middle ages the Cenal Conaill were led by the O'Donnell family and the Cenel Owen by the O'Neill family. The boundaries of their kingdoms were fixed in the thirteenth century as the boundaries of the Diocese of Derry and the Diocese of Raphoe. Aileach is in the Diocese of Derry.
Its an opportune time to revisit some of the original places highlighted in this blog.If you are thinking of visiting Derry-Londonderry,and want to get a good understanding of the history of the place, you must start in Co Donegal. Grianan of Aileach is visible from many parts of the city and sits like a reminder of the long history of the place. It was the centre of power in ancient times and can be understood as the city's predecessor. The king there was so powerful that he drove off the vikings in the Ninth Century, unlike his counterparts in Dublin, Limerick, Wexford and Cork.
Happy New Year all. 10 years this year since the City of Culture and the original Marks of Time exhibition. Thanks to all who supported and visited at the time and who have followed the journey since.
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Marks of Time
Sketches of buildings in the North West of Ireland and further afield with a little information about their history. Categories
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April 2024
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